24 Hours in Detroit

Have you sensed a theme to my summer yet? I’m hitting up as many Midwest destinations as I can before I move away in August. Also, I love traveling solo to places that people don’t think I should, like Mexico City. Or Detroit. Yeah, I’m stubborn. And a bit contrarian. It’s genetic. This summer is just flying by, so I didn’t have time for an extended weekend, which is how I found myself with just 24 hours in Detroit. There are so many Detroit activities and attractions, I would highly recommend at least a 3-day weekend here. If I had more time, I would definitely make a return trip just to visit all the cool museums!

Downtown Detroit

Detroit History

Detroit was founded in 1701 by the French (Cadillac) and became most well-known as the hub of the American auto industry after Ford opened his factory here in the early 1900’s. By 1950, Detroit was America’s fifth largest city, with 1.85 million residents. In addition to the auto industry, Detroit became famous for Motown Records, which was founded here in 1959, spawning superstars like the Supremes, Marvin Gaye and the Jackson 5. The 70’s oil crisis helped spur the popularity of smaller, foreign cars, which further hastens Detroit’s decline. Since it’s peak in the 50’s, Detroit has lost over 60% of its population, with over 30% of the remaining residents living below the poverty line. As recently as 2013, the city of Detroit filed for bankruptcy. Fast forward to 2017 and Detroit made the NY Times 52 Places to Go list!

Downtown Detroit, Campus Martius Park

Detroit’s Rise, Fall and Renewal Tour

If you follow my blog, you know I enjoy tours. I think they are a great way to get to know the landscape and layout of a city, as well as get some local history. I joined Detroit Urban Adventures for their Detroit’s Rise, Fall and Renewal Tour. We met our tour guide, local attorney Bob, in the late afternoon and set off on a walking tour of the downtown area. Bob gave us really interesting insight into the rise and fall of Detroit as we strolled around viewing the signs of renewal all around us.

Urban Adventures Detroit Tour

Bob told us about two major players in the Detroit real estate market: Dan Gilbert (Quicken Loans) and the Ilitch family (Little Caesar’s) who have bought up most of the downtown area and begun to renovate older buildings, driving up value in the downtown area. For someone who has only heard stories of the downfall of Detroit, I was surprised at the caliber of downtown hotels in the area. After a couple hours of walking around the downtown area, our tour concluded with a complimentary beer at Detroit Beer Co.

Heidelberg Project

Heidelberg Television

I met a woman from Detroit in Baja last winter, and she told me about this street full of art that attracts visitors from all over. The Heidelberg Project on Detroit’s East side was started by artist Tyree Guyton, who grew up on Heidelberg Street.

The Heidelberg Project’s mission is to inspire people to appreciate and use artistic expression to enrich their lives and to improve the social and economic health of the greater community.

Heidelberg Project, Bubble House, Detroit

There are a few blocks in the area, with “art” scattered throughout the neighborhood. I am firmly in the “left brain” camp, so I don’t really “get” modern or abstract art. Nevertheless, it was interesting to walk around and snap a few photos.

Detroit Street Art

I am sure you can find posts and/or tours to give you a sense of Detroit’s best street art. I had to mention it as it really stood out to me that Detroit is a city that values art. Even several of the high rise buildings in the downtown area featured large multi-story murals. Sculptures were also frequently sighted in the area. As I drove around Detroit, I often stopped to jump out and photograph different murals that I saw.

Detroit City Street Art

Bailey was particularly fond of this sculpture commemorating legendary Detroit boxer Joe Louis. (Okay, there was a piece of pizza up there that she was after!)

Joe Louis sculpture

Campus Martius Park

Smack in the center of downtown is Campus Martius Park, a bustling park filled with fun Detroit activities. There’s even a beach! For those picturing downtown Detroit as a place to get murdered, taking a stroll through this beautiful green space will totally change your mind! In the winter, there is an ice rink, concerts in the summer and many restaurants are readily available with outdoor seating to take advantage of our super short Midwest summers.

Belle Isle State Park

A local blogger recommended Belle Isle as a good place to take my dog. What a fun island in the river! Since it’s a state park, the entry fee is $9 for out of state residents, but if you visit Michigan often, the annual pass is well worth it.

Detroit and Windsor skylines from Belle Isle

Belle Isle has a lot to offer including an aquarium, conservatory, zoo, museum and golf course! You could easily spend a full day at Belle Isle, especially if you have kids in tow!

Belle Isle Conservatory

Dog-Friendly Eats

Grizzly Peak Brewing Company - Ann Arbor, Michigan

Traffic Jam & Snug is a  restaurant with a dog-friendly patio, located in the Midtown neighborhood, which seemed like a hip area to explore. I enjoyed a pasta dinner here while Bailey was lavished with attention by all the wait staff.

Near my Corktown hotel, the Detroit Institute of Bagels serves up delicious New York style bagels and has a spacious outdoor area where you and your dog can enjoy the Detroit skyline.

Detroit Institute of Bagels

Trumbull and Porter Hotel

Trumbull and Porter Hotel Detroit

I stayed at the Trumbull and Porter Hotel for this visit. Located in Corktown, this artisan boutique hotel is rising from the ashes of a Holiday Inn popular in Detroit’s heyday. The hotel relies heavily on locally sourced goods and partners with many local businesses, like Detroit Bikes. There are still some upgrades to be made around the property, but the hotel rooms are very well done. I loved the crisp, minimalist decor, and my dog loved the cool concrete floors on a hot summer day!

Trumbull and Porter Dog-Friendly Hotel

The Trumbull and Porter Hotel also has great outdoor space. Behind the hotel is a courtyard that will soon be a music venue, art venue and beer garden. Some of the first floor rooms feature a patio overlooking a fire pit.

Trumbull and Porter Hotel Courtyard

Trumbull and Porter is a good mid-range option close to the downtown area. Summer weekend rates range from $159-$209 per night. The Trumbull and Porter allows dogs, although the fee per stay is $100, which isn’t exactly “pet friendly” but it will do in a pinch (or for longer stays)

What are your favorite Detroit Activities?

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I would like to thank Detroit Urban Adventures for hosting me on the downtown tour. These are solely my personal opinions/experiences and I was not financially compensated for this post.

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Exploring Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

I may give the Midwest a hard time, especially since I’ve been trying to escape ever since I landed back here in 2006, but there are some hidden gems worth exploring. One of those is the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, also known as the U.P. (Residents are called Yoopers) The U.P. is a 6-8 hour drive from Chicago, which is why I lived in Chicago for years before ever making the journey. I mean, I can fly to Ireland in less than 8 hours. But the Upper Peninsula is worth it, trust me!

Hiawatha National Forest (6 hours from Chicago)

One of my first trips to the UP, one I repeated 3-4 times, is to a forest service cabin north of Escanaba. My friend Randall organizes this annual trip in late April. The cabins are rustic (no electricity or plumbing) but perfect for an outdoors weekend with friends. We have had lovely spring weather with hikes through trillium-filled woods, while other years the snow was so deep we couldn’t drive all the way to the cabin.  If rustic “glamping” is your jam, you should definitely check out the cabins operated by the Hiawatha National Forest.

Tom's Lake Cabin - Hiawatha National Forest - Michigan

Sylvania Wilderness (6.5 hours from Chicago)

Another scenic destination in the Upper Peninsula is Sylvania Wilderness, near Watersmeet, Michigan. Sylvania has been described as a mini-Boundary Waters, so I always wanted to kayak there, but ended up backpacking instead. Sylvania has 34 named lakes, surrounded by sandy beaches, hiking trails and primitive campgrounds. Now that I’ve experienced portaging, I think backpacking is the way to go! Portaging a kayak packed for multi-day adventure would not be fun. There are plenty of drive-in campgrounds and cabins in the area as well.

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park (7 hours from Chicago)

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is another gem of the Upper Peninsula. The “Porkies” are nestled along the southern shore of Lake Superior and are a popular destination for camping and backpacking. There are also cabins and yurts available, and winter ski/snowshoe trips are another option.  We hiked a bit near Presque Isle campground, following the river trail to Lake Superior.

Porcupine Mountains State Park / Lake Superior

Somehow, I was able to get a campsite at the Union Bay campground in the park on a holiday weekend with no reservation. (I don’t recommend this approach, though!)  The campground was nice, albeit full of RV’s on a holiday weekend, but very clean facilities and walking trails right to Lake Superior.  After setting up camp, dinner and a nap, I set out to practice some night photography.  Little did I know, it doesn’t actually get dark this far north until almost midnight! I managed a few star shots, but unfortunately, no Northern Lights.  I’ll have to go back in the winter when it gets dark earlier!

Sunset on Lake Superior - 10:30 local time!

Lake of the Clouds is another popular spot in the Porkies.  There is a short hike to a nice overlook, and trails around the lake that I assume are less crowded than the paved trail Bailey and I took.

Porcupine Mountains State Park / Lake of the Clouds

Keewinaw Peninsula (7-8 hours from Chicago)

The Keewinaw Peninsula is a rugged strip of land jutting into Lake Superior that will remind you of the Maine coast.  The Peninsula starts in the small college town of Houghton and the road ends at Copper Harbor, with few towns in between. I first visited Copper Harbor to catch a ferry to Isle Royale, but wanted to come back and spend some time on my own as we were a bit rushed the previous trip. At Ft Wilkins State Park, I was also able to score a campsite with no reservations, albeit a scruffy patch of dirt next to the bathroom.  (I think “beggars can’t be choosers” is applicable here!) There are two roads to Copper Harbor – one is along the water and the other is along a ridge-line.  Both are worthy of a drive!

Keewinaw Peninsula - Brockway Mountain

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (6.5 hours from Chicago)

Pictured Rocks Cruising

Pictured Rocks extends along the shore of Lake Superior from the small town of Munising to Grand Marais, approximately 40 miles East. As part of the National Park Service, dogs aren’t allowed on the hiking trails. I was thrilled when I found out that Pictured Rocks Cruises offers on-site kennels for customers! I called from the road and made a cruise reservation. My ticket was $38, which I thought was a good price, given that parking and dog kennel were free!  The cruise lasted 2 1/2 hours, and is a great way to see the park from the water. If you are not a backpacker, you should definitely take a boat to see the highlights of Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Pictured Rocks Backpacking

After a small intro to Pictured Rocks on the boat cruise, I made plans to return in late September for a solo backpacking trip. I submitted a permit application about a month ahead of time, and waited for the confirmation.  (I thought I was being overly cautious by getting a permit ahead of time, but saw several folks at the ranger station having a hard time piecing together an itinerary with available campsites.)

Starting the hike at Grand Sable

Backcountry campsites at Pictured Rocks are spaced about 4-7 miles apart, along the 42 mile Lakeshore Trail (which also is part of the North Country Trail.) One great thing about this hike is that there is a company that runs a shuttle bus up and down the park. Generally, shuttling cars is one of the trickier logistics of planning a backpacking trip, so it’s one less thing to worry about here. Although I had a conservative itinerary and met two great ladies the first day on the trail, I realized by the 2nd night that solo backpacking was not my jam.  After a sleepless night of silence in the woods, I bailed out at Twelve Mile Beach campground and took the shuttle back to my car. FAIL. It was still a great trip and I’m glad I tried it. I will give solo backpacking another shot with my guard dog next time!

I do think Pictured Rocks is a great place for a beginner backpacker or first-time solo trip.  It’s nearly impossible to get lost, as you follow the lakeshore almost the whole way and if you veer too far south, you’ll hit a road.  There are established campsites along the way, all of them have bear boxes and poles, many have a vault toilet and potable water, and there are several “bailout options” as you pass through several day-use areas along the way. I recommend getting a map ahead of time from Michigan Trail Maps – my map had much more detail than what the park provided, and I didn’t see any other map options in town.

Pictured Rocks Car Camping

After my failed backpacking trip, I was able to join my new friends at Twelvemile Beach for some car camping.  This campground is the bomb!  It’s a small campground that does not take reservations, so getting a spot might be tricky, but it’s worth a shot!  Campsites are perched on the bluff above the beach, and you can hear crashing waves all night long. If Twelvemile Beach is full, Hurricane River campground is just a few miles north and has more campsites. (And dogs are allowed, just not on the trails)

TwelveMile Beach Campground

TwelveMile Beach Campground

Tahquamenon Falls State Park (8 hours from Chicago)

Tahquamenon Falls State Park has one of the largest waterfalls west of the Mississippi River. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get a campsite here, even though it was the last night of a holiday weekend. We arrived pretty late, so I didn’t have much time to explore as I now had to worry about where I would sleep that night.

There is a nice short boardwalk hike to the main area of the falls.  The campground and state park facilities looked really nice, too.  There is a boat rental concession so you can paddle around some of the falls.

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Mackinac Bridge (6.5 hours from Chicago)

After striking out at Tahquemenon Falls, I considered getting a hotel, but was now in the pricey tourist zone near Mackinaw Island. I got a campsite at Straits State Park, which is near the famous Mackinac Bridge.  I’m now kicking myself for not going to photograph the bridge at night.  I had no idea how close I was!  First thing in the morning, I drove to a few viewpoints to see the bridge before driving across it.  Mackinac Island is a popular tourist destination, but accessible only by ferry as cars aren’t allowed on the island.  I think it’s fairly touristy (think lots of fudge and taffy shops!) so I wasn’t disappointed to pass it up.

Mackinaw Bridge

 

If you’re doing this all in one trip, it makes a great circle around Lake Michigan. The Lower Peninsula of Michigan has lots to offer as well, including tons of adorable beach towns. However, you’ll find a lot more people here and you will quickly miss the open roads and serenity of the Upper Peninsula.

If you’re looking for a fun itinerary, I saw this UP waterfall itinerary on Facebook, and loosely based one of my trips on this waterfall trail through the Upper Peninsula.

Have you been to the Upper Peninsula?  What spots am I missing?

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Michigan Upper Peninsula

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